Tenaya Oasi Review
Tenaya are brand that we have trusted our feet in for a long time. Between the After the Send crew we have had the RA, Masai, Mundaka, Iati, and Tarifas. With many of us trying at least one of each type. The Oasi are not the newest pair from the Spanish brand but they are a firm favourite for our feet.
Tenaya is the creation of José Luis García Gallego, a Spanish climber who has put up routes from Spain to Yosemite. His most notable first ascents fill the walls of Tenaya Peak, in Yosemite. I don’t have to spell out where the name came from do I? Since starting the brand in 1997 he and his team have poured they heart and soul into making some of the best shoes in the world. Just ask some of their athletes: Alex Megos, Alize Dufraisse, Ramon Julian and Nonaka Miho.
So, we prized Emmie’s feet out of her Masai and her beloved Five Ten Anasazi to see how she would get on with the UK’s favourite pair of rubber socks.
‘The Tenaya Oasi is an ever increasingly popular climbing shoe. A high performance shoe worn by professional athletes and beginners alike, odds are you’ve spotted someone sporting them. After trying a pair myself, I can see why.
For me, the most important aspect of a climbing shoe is comfort. I know they’re not supposed to be comfy and the more aggressive the better (apparently) but I’m pleased to say the Oasi does a great job of providing comfort and aggression. The soft Vibram XS Grip rubber allows the shoe to quickly and effectively mould to the shape of your foot. My previous stiffer shoes would leave me unable to walk after a long session or even a long route! But these babies provide all day comfort without losing any technicality. And they look good too.
The guys at Tenaya worked tirelessly for 2 years developing this multi-functional shoe that could be used bouldering and on vertical or overhanging routes. The shoe comes with two different straps so you can decide which works best for your foot. The Velcro ‘Draxtor’ closure system, the one Tenaya developed themselves, allows the user to adjust the fit of the shoe with ease. Although aggressively down-turned, the precise RBRX technology (which works closely with the SXR Dynamic fastening system) ensures you get the best contact with the rock. This sounds like a lot of jargon, but basically, it means they are sure to fit your foot and they’re not gonna pop off mid-route.
I’m no expert when it comes to climbing gear, but I have been wearing my Oasi for a few months now (both indoor bouldering and outdoor sport routes) and it’s safe to say these shoes are worth a purchase.’
Check out the Tenaya Mundaka for another option from one of our favourite brands.
Thanks to Beta Outdoor Sports for sorting us out with the shoes.